Alexandra Moura, London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019. Photos by Olivier Claisse ©
The ‘Heirloom’ SS19 collection reinforces the history of the Alexandra Moura both aesthetically and conceptually – it evokes the family holidays Alexandra took in Trás-os-Montes, near the frontier of Vila Verde da Raia. Memories of her Grandmother Amélia and Grandfather Delfim’s house can be found within details of the collection; look close and you will find the clothes worn for their village’s celebrations and the procession on a bright Sunday.
Two realities of the designer’s life are joined together within her garments, the girl from the city who would feel delighted to go to the village. Alexandra vividly remembers floral paintings and Impressionist art that would decorate the walls of her grandparent’s living room. It was in this room that kitsch and elegant hand-painted china was placed alongside vases proudly filled with plastic and fabric flowers made of vibrant colours; they clashed against several carpet materials and the floral brocades of the sofa.
The materials present in ‘Heirloom’ include embroidered tulle which is referred to as ‘Resplendor’, floral jacquard, denim and cotton. These juxtapositions in material establish a bridge between the classical and the contemporary.
The use of tweed with retro tones and a total black floral viscose is purposely there to reveal an intimate connection between the designer and her grandparents.
The shapes and details of some garments take classic influence; these traditional features come in opposition with the collection’s oversized garments that have a sportswear feeling and are better recognised by those from a city background, and not the town from Alexandra’s memories.
Inspired by the success of past seasons, Alexandra Moura has reintroduced the trench coats and oversized dresses that the label has become known for. For the fourth time, the brand is collaborating with the Portuguese brand Duffy Sport that provides puffer jackets and accessories for this collection.
A new collaboration has also emerged in this collection, with the Portuguese footwear brand EXCEED Shoe Thinkers. The sportswear undertones and traditional inspirations in this collection, when combined with EXCEED, have created exemplary well-crafted unisex shoes and sneakers.
